Saturday, October 6, 2012

Behind the Wheel: Drive to Hoima

Yesterday we drove from Soroti to Hoima. We started out by leaving late (typical) but then had some not-so-typical experiences. 

Locked Up
First, a back story: I stayed in a room at the Soroti house/office for the past week, and many of our colleagues stayed at a local hotel that had recently been renovated and re-opened.  Now, don’t let that description "renovated" fool you. Outwardly, the place looked nice, but it was not quite finished and had some issues, such as hot water heaters that were not connected (or not working if they were), leaking sinks (as in leaking into the room), and in the case of one of the other fellows, a pond beginning to form under her sink, complete with a frog. Now, prior to deciding to use this hotel, the local staff in Soroti had negotiated a good price, paid half of the entire expense for all guests as a deposit, and then received an invoice for the remaining amount.  However, when it came time to check out and settle the bill (which is usually done the night before you leave, rather than the morning you depart), there was an issue.  Those running the hotel had decided to charge almost twice as much for the rooms. Naturally, the guests protested and refused to pay the exorbitant price.

Now, getting back to our morning departure. After loading up bags at the house/office, we drove over to the hotel to pick up the remaining passengers' bags.  So both our car, which was bound for Hoima, Uganda, and the matatu which would ferry our Kenyan colleagues back to Kakamega, went to the hotel to check out. This hotel, like most hotels I’ve seen in Africa so far, was within a gated compound. So we drove through the gates into the compound to load up and head out. Then the hotel's proprietors, who were still not satisfied because their double-fee had not been paid, locked us into the compound and refused to open the gates to let us out, until we paid the new price. Long story short, we were stuck in the compound for almost an hour while the local staff argued with the hotel owner.  I found it especially funny that people like myself, who had not even been guests of the hotel, were also locked in.  The hotel owner’s rationale was that since people used the hot water heaters (which as I mentioned before didn’t work), they had to pay double, which was of course never communicated when anyone checked in. My first thought was, why aren't we calling the police?  But we are in Africa, and things work a bit differently here.  Plus, there were concerns that involving the police would only further delay our departure due to having to go to the station, fill out paperwork, etc. In the end, given everyone had long drives back home that were already delayed, the overpriced fee was paid and the gate opened so we could get out. The local office staff then planned to follow up to try to get some redress after we, the prisoners, had been freed.

Locked in the Hotel Tikitik
Driving in Africa
As if that start to the day was not exciting enough, I also had my first experience of driving in Africa!  We had 5 people in the car going to Hoima, but only people with drivers licenses are (naturally) allowed to drive the company vehicles. But most of the African staff do not have drivers' licenses, and Peace Corps volunteers are not allowed to drive. So my roommate, one of the other Fellows, and I were the drivers. My roommate took the first leg of the journey, since she has been here longer and driven in Africa before.  I took the second leg, and it was pretty crazy!  The roads, as I have mentioned before, are not in the best shape.  When they are paved, there are often huge chunks missing off of the sides and big potholes in the middle.  Then you have lots of motorcycles (called “bodas” in Uganda), bicycles and pedestrians walking along the sides. I was also driving in the early afternoon so there were TONS of children walking home from school. On top of that, I was driving on the left side of the road for the first time in my life in a vehicle that was like 4 times the size of my Honda Fit. As it turns out, I actually preferred the unpaved roads since you have a lot more space to work with and are not having to dodge the crumbling edge of the road as much.  I only lasted for about an hour and a half or so and then my roommate took the last part of the journey.  It was good practice and helpful to have many backseat drivers giving me advice (which I actually really appreciated). Definitely good preparation for future drives to the field and other local villages. 

Paved road
Unpaved road
And, the beauty of driving in Africa is that you get to see things like the Nile, and patas monkeys and baboons along the way!

View as we drove over the Nile
View after passing over the Nile
Baboons on the road side

Lunch in Masindi
We ended up stopping for lunch in Masindi on the way, which is about an hour and a half or 2 hours outside of Hoima.  As it turns out, the place we stopped was the exact same place I went to lunch when we drove through Masindi when I was in Uganda back in January, which was a fun coincidence.

Menu

Enjoying a pineapple soda while waiting for lunch
It looks like I’ll be in Hoima about 3 weeks, and then I will be going back to Soroti for a bit, and then returning to Hoima, but we’ll see since plans tend to be pretty fluid here.

Friday, October 5, 2012

Summit in Soroti

We spent the past week in Soroti, Uganda, for an all field staff Summit which included about 25 people that had come from our 1 office in Kenya and 2 offices in Uganda. We even had one of our volunteers fly in from the United States. It was incredibly productive with presentations and discussions throughout the day, and meetings and cooking in the evenings. It was a lot of fun meeting everyone, having the group together, and learning more about the organization. It was also truly impressive to learn about all of the staff's various expertise and experience, and I enjoyed participating in thought-provoking and engaging strategic discussions. I learned a lot from everyone about development, nonprofits and agriculture. 
Village Enterprise Field Staff
As always, I can't help but also bring up the food. On our first night, we went out to dinner at a place called Jose Martin (which is not Mexican food). I'm starting to get better at eating with my hands, especially on nights like those when there was no silverware. So I ate fried tilapia and french fries by hand. Unfortunately since it was also dark where we were eating outside, I don't have any pictures to share of that dinner, but you can imagine eating a fish by hand in the dark without prior experience can be a challenge!

Given there's way too much to cover from the whole week in one blog post, I'll just share a few highlights from each day. 

Summit Day 1 Highlights:
Started at 8 a.m. with light breakfast (tea, bread and butter). The organization's CEO dialed in from the US to kick off the session, then we had presentations from our Ugandan & Kenyan colleagues, broke for lunch at 1, had more discussions in the afternoon, then a meeting from 6 - 8 p.m. Then some of us went out for beers for my roommate, Heather's birthday. We then came back to the Soroti home/office and had Kenyan food night.  We had decided before the summit that people from each of the countries would take turns cooking one of the nights.  So after a long day of meetings, the Kenyan team then cooked a huge feast, and we had dinner around 10 p.m.  


Colleague presenting
Tasty lunch of beans, rice, potato & banana
One of our Kenyan staff dishing up the Kenyan dinner
Kenyan dinner of ugali with sauce, local greens, githeri & fish
Locally purchased b-day cake (was decent though not so fresh looking)

Summit Day 2 Highlights: 
The day started out with bread, butter, milk tea and samosas.  We had more engaging discussions on things like targeting, value chain development, conservation and poverty reduction. It was so inspiring to witness everyone's passion and commitment for poverty alleviation. We enjoyed yet another wonderful home cooked lunch, and then finished out the afternoon with more presentations. After work, one of my American roommates and I went for a jog around Soroti. It was my first time running here, or doing any kind of formal exercising--besides laundry and walking around town or the villages. It felt really good and was highly necessary given how much I've been enjoying the food here! I definitely wouldn't feel comfortable going for a jog alone, but we felt completely safe going together. As it started to get dark, I asked my roommate if she thought maybe we should have some sort of reflector vests on since we were jogging along the road side.  She pointed out to me that our skin, is pretty much reflective, and stands out enough here to take care of that.  After we got back, we had Ugandan Food night, and the meal was just spectacular!  


Colleague leading a discussion on Value Chains
Group discussion
Delicious lunch of cow peas, cooked cabbage, rice & pineapple
Sorting green grams for Ugandan dinner
Grinding green grams for  Ugandan dinner sauce
My Ugandan roommate roasting peanuts (or ground nuts) for g-nut sauce
Awesome Ugandan dinner of posho w/green gram sauce, local greens with g-nut sauce (which I LOVE) & "chocolate ugali" which is not actually chocolate (meats & sweet potatoes not pictured)
Summit Day 3 Highlights
We started out the day with rolexes, my FAVORITE breakfast, and also described in my earlier blog on food.  We then had more presentations and discussions on business strategies and micro-enterprise development until 2 p.m.  We broke for lunch and did some grocery shopping in the local market in preparation for American food night. We then all went and played soccer in a field across the street. I can't remember the last time I played, and it was pretty dicey given the field was full of holes and rocks (and even more so for my coworkers who weren't wearing shoes). But we all survived and the it was a fun match that ended with a tie.  


Making eggs for rolex
Chapati for Rolex
Rolling Eggs in Chapati
Breakfast of Champions: Rolex!
Heating & Pouring Hot Milk Tea
Milk Tea: Sweet & Delicious!! 
Group enjoying a morning icebreaker
Lunch: Pilau rice, local greens, avocado AND guac! Fantastic!!
Coworker leading group discussion 
"Football" match

American Food Night: We then cooked the American dinner, which consisted of grilled cheese, tomato soup, sloppy joes, cole slaw and chocolate pudding (the pudding packets were brought to us by the volunteer who came from the states). We did our best, but I'm thinking the Kenyans and Ugandans may have been a bit underwhelmed by our performance. 

The pudding was confusing for a lot of people--which is understandable, given it's appearance and consistency. Plus, we didn't have enough plates and bowls to separate the dessert, so it was served all at once. Since no one here had tried pudding before, it ended up getting mixed with the cole slaw, sloppy joes and other things.  Apparently it's also odd to serve bread with dinner here.  One of my coworkers remarked that he couldn't understand how we liked eating bread with dinner. Another asked if we had any of the grilled cheese sandwiches without the cheese? And finally, one of my Kenyan coworkers had my favorite quote of the night. He was asking about the sloppy joe's and said, "What did you say these were called?  Dirty Hamburgers?"


Fellow volunteer & American Chef!
Coworkers "enjoying" American food night
American grub: tomato soup, grilled cheese, sloppy joe, cole slaw & pudding
Summit Day 4 Highlights:
We wrapped up the summit with very engaging and lengthy discussions on how our business savings groups are working and the overall program structure and cycle, weaving in all of the inputs from the week.  It was a long week, and mentally exhausting and exciting at the same time.  We had another late lunch, got in some photo ops, finished out the day, and then went out to dinner again at Jose Martin (more fish and chips eaten by hand).  I then went out to local bar with some of my coworkers where we danced until 2 a.m.  It was a LOT of fun, but definitely too late for me. Though it was nice to be in a town where it's safe to be out at night, so that was a nice change from Kenya.
More group discussion
Last summit lunch
More group pictures
It was a wonderful week filled with great people, lots of good information, and of course, fantastic food!  I enjoyed Soroti, which is good, because I will be coming back and spending more time there during my fellowship. The heat takes some getting used to, as do the aggressive mosquitos in the area, and I never quite warmed up to the rooster that liked to stand right under my bedroom window and crow from 6-6:30 in the morning. But all in all, it was a wonderful experience.  


My morning wake up call

Monday, October 1, 2012

Journey to Uganda

Yesterday we made the long trek from Kakamega, Kenya to Soroti, Uganda.  The journey started at 8 a.m. that morning and ended around 7 p.m. that night. 

We began by meeting at the house/office.  We departed a little late (true to East African form), made a couple of stops in town, and then left Kakamega town around 9 a.m. (not too bad actually).  Fortunately, some of my colleagues were kind enough to help me haul around my ridiculously large amount of luggage.  



Way too much baggage!
We hired a matatu to get us to the border since we had a large group, and then we hired another one to pick us up on the Uganda side of the border to take us the rest of the way.  It was a long day, but the landscape was beautiful (as always) and we saw some interesting sights.   

More fun (or not so much) travelling in matatus
I'm always impressed by African ingenuity, doing the best with what you have
Line of trucks waiting to cross the border
 At one point, we got stuck with a train crossing the road.  The frustrating part was that it was moving really slow, then it stopped several times blocking the road, started to go backwards, then forward, then backwards, then forward...  Eventually it moved out of the way about 10-15 minutes later. 
Waiting for the train
We stopped for lunch in Mbale, Uganda (where I actually stayed a couple of days when I came to Uganda in January), and we had yet another delicious meal (if you haven't figured it out yet, I LOVE with the food here.)   :)


Beans, pilau rice and chapati. Yum!!
The roads in Uganda are definitely worse than Kenya, so we got to experience the more vigorous Ugandan massage for several hours. The first sign we were getting close to Soroti was the rock formation on the horizon that is situated near the town.  We then passed Lake Kyoga, which was really pretty, though I think it's a big factor in why there are SO many mosquitoes here. 

Challenging roads on the way to Soroti
Lake Kyoga
We arrived to a very warm reception by the staff here in Soroti, and I enjoyed watching joyous greetings of coworkers who had never met and those who were reuniting for the first time in a while. 

I'll be staying here in Soroti for 1 week. Below is a photo of my room. Unfortunately, the new digs have no hot water. :(  I had been spoiled by only having a couple cold showers while in Kenya.  A possible plus side though, is that it's a LOT hotter here, which makes the cold showers not quite as bad...




A downside though, is in my first night here, I got significantly more mosquito bites in a matter of hours than I received during the 5 weeks I was in Kenya.

We'll enjoy the week here in Soroti while at our summit of all field staff from Kenya and Uganda.  I'll then be heading to Hoima, Uganda, at the end of the week.

Saturday, September 29, 2012

Special Delivery!

It was a very exciting day today!  My roommate and I went to the post office, and we both received packages.  This was my first time receiving mail in Africa. 


My first package!
At first we were worried the packages wouldn't make it before we left for Uganda. Fortunately, we made friends with someone at the Kakamega post office, so he kept an eye out for our mail, and called us as soon as some parcels arrived. 

It's interesting, I was warned ahead of time that the customs office in Kenya will search the boxes. Apparently anything that looks valuable may be removed from the box before you receive it, so you have to be careful about what you send. As you can see, it appears my package, in addition to being a little squished, also had been opened and "inspected."




Fortunately, it looks like everything made it through (though I'll have to confirm with my parents next time we skype). 




The booty! (both my and roommate's packages, she really likes Cheetos)
Quite the banner day! Unfortunately, another much-anticipated parcel made it through Kenyan customs on Thursday, but hasn't arrived in Kakamega yet. Since I'm leaving for Uganda tomorrow, I'll have to have a coworker pick it up when arrives. It will then be transported with the next person in our organization who travels from Kenya to Uganda, where I'll be staying until I go home for a couple weeks at Christmas.